Eating & Drinking in Poble Sec — Sense of the City

Poble Sec means “dry village” – it was the last area to get water, and it still feels village-y. It’s also become something of a gastro-hub.

As it’s kind of low-key it can seem a sedate choice for a night out, some would say chilled. For some noise, head to C/Blai and the many pintxos bars. These have become a thing in the last few years, and consequently a couple of them aren’t all that. Reliably good is OG La Tasqueta de Blai. A great way to eat cheaply & informally Pintxos works for picky eaters who can help themselves from bar trays (collect coloured cocktail sticks and pay accordingly at the end). Kids love it (mini burgers!).

You’ll see locals on nights out, students and visitors; the atmosphere can be lively but I’ve never seen it lairy. Probably not the best choice for hen party crawls.

Start with a livener and a tapa in El Rincon de Cava (near Plaça del Sortidor), a convivial bar with a studenty feel that serves good value fizz in vintage glasses to a mixed crowd. Have your photo taken for the wall, unless you’re there with someone you shouldn’t be.

Early evening is the time to try legendary Quimet i Quimet. Folk (mostly visitors tbh) travel for this classic and it’s always a squeeze. Go early evening for a vermut & signature cold tapa salmon/cream cheese/honey. Good quality preserves are their thing – top seafood out of jars. Expect to stand, possibly elbow to elbow with tourists and locals. If it’s too busy (likely) cross the road to unprepossessing Andalusian bar La Chana, and follow their lead for good value delish small fishy plates and Barbadillo wine.

Another drinking option is Cal Marino, a Classic bodega (wine from the barrel) in a dark tavern, also serves craft beer and tapas.

Close by is El Sortidor, old school Catalan - full meals and tapas in a lovely modernista building in a square of the same name. There’s a nice terrace, but I love the untouched design of the 1908 interior. Another traditional neighbourhood restaurant is Escairon, which serves a generous lunchtime menu del dia on checked tablecloths.

For something more modern, try La Platilleria, which has the feel of a neighbourhood tapas /wine bar, but the food is actually more upmarket and unusual than you might expect, with prices to match. Friendly staff are proud of their experimentation and will talk you through the menu.

Foodie destination Xemei serves Venetian food in the shadow of Montjuic. Colombian twins Max and Stephano (Xemei means twins) introduced their Venetian food to the city, a fish-heavy cuisine that is distinct from Italian as you may know it.

A treaty option is Mano Rota with its modern, creative Catalan food with more than a twist. Seriously acclaimed, you can eat for around 40 euros, with the tasting menu going up to more like 85 euros plus wine. The super minimal interior may seem too cool for school, but emphasis is on the food and it retains an enthusiastic and laid-back vibe.

There are of course a million tiny little neighbourhood bars in between these. There’s nothing dry about the village these days. Salud!